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Chef Hall of Fame
Robert W. Lee
A Legacy To Honor
by Chef Joe Randall
August 1, 1998
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January 1, 1911 to
November 24, 1999
Giving Honor to God and to the
thousands of African-American chefs and cooks who came before me,
establishing the very foundation for our great cuisine. Without their
mastery and contribution, we would have had no basis to forge upon. Chef
Robert W. Lee, is one of those worthy heirs to a great tradition of
southern cooking we should honor.
Chef Lee started his culinary journey in
Atlanta, Georgia at the age of seven years old around 1918. An education
was not a priority at the time, surviving was the task at hand to be
able to work was to be able to eat. His father was deceased and he
needed to help at home. While in the streets doing the best he could, he
observed a man who went in and out of the Biltmore Hotel every day who
appeared to be doing quite well. Young Robert discovered the man was
Eugene Bruauier the French chef at the hotel and soon became his
personal boy. |
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Chef Lee worked and trained under Chef
Bruauier for thirteen years. He then worked at the King and Prince Beach
Club on Saint Simons Island, Georgia. Robert moved to Charleston, South
Carolina He relocated to Atlanta in 1939 where he worked at the Hotel Henry
Grady until he was lured to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania around 1939 by the chef
he had worked for in Charleston. Chef Lee worked as a cook at the
Harrisburger Hotel until 1942. |

Click here to view a Proclamation given by
the Mayor of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania in 1998 |
He then joined the U.S. Army where he became a mess sergeant and instructor,
returning to the Harrisburger Hotel as a cook in 1946, after being
discharged from the army. Over the next year, the Hotel experienced a rapid
turnover of executive chefs. Finally, Chef Lee was recommended for the
position of executive chef which he excepted over the next twenty-seven
years.
Chef Lee managed the kitchens at the Harrisburger Hotel, with an entire
African-American staff. He trained many young men and women for careers in
the culinary field. Lecturing and demonstrating at Pennsylvania State
University School of Hotel Management. Chef Lee built a clientele in several
restaurants within the hotel and maintained a dedicated following throughout
those years.
In 1966 the owner of the Harrisburger Hotel died. Chef Lee excepted the
position as executive chef at the Blue Ridge Country Club, where he worked
until the fall of 1969. He took over as executive chef at the Sheraton Hotel
Harrisburg for the Archris Hotel Corporation of Boston. His outstanding
achievements in the Culinary Arts were recognized by naming him Chef of the
Year from 1970 thru 1979. Chef Lee retired in 1979 and lived with his
devoted wife Geneva in Harrisburg, PA until his death November 24, 1999.
African-American Chefs And Cooks
Master Chef Will Finally Get His Just Desserts
by Sue Gleiter
The Patriot News Harrisburg, PA
When Robert W. Lee was cooking at the Harrisburger Hotel, the lines
stretched for blocks from its doors. No other menu in town offered crabcakes,
chicken pot pies and chopped chicken livers prepared in classic Southern
style by the city's first African-American executive chef. "Harrisburg, as
far as food, was not on the map until I came here," says Lee, now 87.
The man who put Harrisburg on the culinary map will be inducted into the
national Hall of Fame Toques will be tipped tonight when Lee is inducted
into the African-American Chefs Hall of Fame in a ceremony at the Harrisburg
Ramada Inn. Lee was part of a line of African-American chefs brought North
by wealthy northern restaurant owners during the 1930s and 1940s. "He infused
that Southern flavor and skill," said Joe Randall, president of A Taste of
Heritage Foundation, which sponsors the Hall of Fame. "It was unheard of, of
him being an executive chef. There have always been blacks in the kitchen,
but executive chefs, they were usually European."
For more than two decades, Lee worked as executive chef at the Harrisburger
along North Third Street, where he "made the menus, hired and fired" and
trained hundreds of African-American chefs. "We didn't use cans like the
chefs do today," Lee says. "I'm about the last person who would know about
preparation from the bottom." Lee made all of the food for the hotel from
scratch, including mayonnaise and dressings. "When I started, you could buy
a hamburger for 25 cents. Today, everyone is working off of recipes. I did
not see a cookbook until I came north," he said.
Today, Lee cooks most of his meals at the North 15th Street home he shares
with his wife, Geneva. A recent family dinner included boiled pot with
potatoes, carrots and turnips. Looking over photos and newspaper clippings
from his career in the kitchen, Lee said he once turned down a shot at
becoming a prize fighter. "I had a chance to sign a $35,000 contract, and I
didn't." His cooking career started in Atlanta, where he raised his brother
and sister and worked at the Atlanta Biltmore Hotel at age 9. Jobs would
take Lee to Charleston, S.C., and an exclusive club on Georgia1s St. Simons
Island. In 1939, Lee crossed the Mason-Dixon Line and went to work at the
Harrisburger for $75 a week. It was there he met his "adopted father," hotel
manager James Johnston. "He was a gentlemen. When he gave me the chef's job,
I did not feel qualified, but he gave me the chance with his quarter million
dollar business."
During his World War II Army service, Lee taught cooking and received a
medal from President Franklin D. Roosevelt for the extraordinary number of
cooks he trained. After the war, Lee returned to the Harrisburger and worked
at the hotel until its 1968 closing, then became executive chef at the blue
ridge Country Club and the Sheraton Hotel Harrisburg. Over the years, Lee
developed an award-winning reputation for his crabcakes, stuffings, hors
d1oeuvres and salads. But when Lee won his first cooking competition at age
23, he was denied the opportunity to receive a prize before an audience. "At
that time, the blacks could not go to the front to get their recognition,"
he said. "I didn't have much feeling toward it. I was just happy enough to
make beautiful hors d'doeuvres." Later in his career, Lee was asked to do a
cooking demonstration at a York hotel, but was greeted by a sign directing
blacks to the rear entrance. Lee threatened to leave until management agreed
to let him walk through the front door. Otherwise, Lee said he did not let
discrimination slow the progress of his career. He'll be feted tonight by
the Washington, D.C.-based foundation and the City of Harrisburg for forging
ahead in an industry once dominated by whites."It shook me up," Lee said of
his latest honor. Randall and nine other mid-state chefs who worked under
Lee at the Harrisburger Hotel will also be recognized after Lee's induction.
Chef Lee's Crab Cakes recipe
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6 lbs. back fin lump crab
meat
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1 cup melted butter
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12 slices of bread
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6 tbsp. finely chopped onion
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1 tsp. white pepper
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2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
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1/2 tbsp. Tobasco sauce
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2 tbsp. dry mustard
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6 eggs
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2 1/2 cups mayonnaise
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2 tbsp. Accent Saute finely
chopped onion in butter. Dice white bread fine.
Mix well in bowl: melted
butter, white pepper, salt, Worcestershire sauce, dry mustard, raw eggs,
mayonnaise and Accent. Add to mixture, folding in lightly, crab meat from
which shells have been removed. Place mixture in refrigerator for two hours
before making crab cakes.
Weigh and shape into 2 1/4 oz. cakes. Dip in flour--then moisten in egg
dip--bread in toasted fresh bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat for 5 minutes at
275*.
Egg Dip
Mix these ingredients well.
Serves: 30 5-oz. portions (2-2 1/2 oz. crab cakes).
Robert W. `Chef` Lee
Obituary
by Sue Gleiter
The Patriot News Harrisburg, PA
November 27, 1999
Robert W. `Chef` Lee, a retired chef who was honored by President Franklin
D. Roosevelt, died Wednesday in Dauphin Manor. Lee, 88, of 1212 N. 15th St.,
retired in 1980 as chef from the former Sheraton West in Fairview Twp., and
had been the first black executive chef at the former Hotel Harrisburger,
where he spent more than two decades. He also had worked at Blue Ridge
Country Club.
He was an inductee in the African-American Chefs Hall of Fame, sponsored by
the Taste of Heritage Foundation in Washington, D.C. The foundation was
founded by Chef Joe Randall, who grew up in Harrisburg and worked under Lee.
"He was well-known in the Harrisburg area, especially by young people", said
the Rev. Dr. Gwendolyn Allen, pastor of Mount Sinai A.M.E. Church, Edgemont,
who will officiate at his funeral. "He gave a lot of opportunities to young
folks to learn the art of cooking. He was interested in people and always
extended himself to help others."
When Lee was cooking at the Harrisburger, "the lines stretched for blocks
from its doors," Patriot-News food writer Sue Gleiter wrote in a 1998
article. "No other menu in town offered crabcakes, chicken pot pies and
chopped chicken livers prepared in classic Southern style."
"We didn't use cans like the chefs do today," Lee told Gleiter. "I'm about
the last person who would know about preparation from the bottom." In the
same interview, Lee said he once turned down a $35,000 prizefighting
contract.
He began his cooking career in Atlanta, later working in Charleston, S.C.,
in an exclusive club on Georgia's St. Simons Island before starting at the
Harrisburger -- for $75 a week -- in1940. Lee won awards for his crabcakes,
stuffings, hors d'oeuvres and salads. When he won his first cooking
competition at age 23, he was denied the opportunity to receive a prize
before an audience, because he was black.
He taught and gave food demonstrations across the country and received a
medal from President Roosevelt in recognition of the large number of cooks
he trained while an Army cooking instructor and mess sergeant during World
War II. Mayor Stephen R. Reed also honored him.
He was a member of Harris A.M.E. Zion Church, enjoyed playing bingo and was
an avid baseball fan.
Surviving are his wife, Geneva Lee ; a son, Avery Robinson, and a daughter,
Joann Overton, both of Harrisburg; a brother, Floyd of Atlanta; a sister,
Pansy Ervin of Harrisburg; five grandchildren; and four great-grandchildren.
Services will be held at 11 a.m. Monday in Mount Sinai A.M.E. Church.
Burial, with full military honors, will be in Indiantown Gap National
Cemetery. Viewing will be from 10 to 11 a.m. Monday in the church. Franklin
Funeral Home, Steelton, is handling arrangements.
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